Bring Out the Band
Saws Finding the
right fine-finish tool for you by Curtis Rist
Band Saw Basics
All About Blades
A circular
saw may be portable, and a jig saw may be
able to make a plunge cut into the center of a piece of wood, but only a band saw can
produce a truly finished piece of wood. As the thin steel blade zips along at
upwards of 2,000 feet per minute, the wood it parts emerges with a clean edge,
as if it's been polished with fine-grain sandpaper.
A band saw gets its name from the blade itself, a
giant loop that's stretched between two or three wheels and pulled through a
small hole in a cutting table. Its blade is thin--far thinner than that of a
circular saw--and can cut not only straight lines, but also graceful curves.
This makes band saws a favorite among everyone from boat builders to furniture
makers. With the right blades, these versatile saws can cut plastic and metal as
well as wood. Band
Saw Basics Heft You can't just toss a band saw into your
toolbox the way you can a circular saw. The biggest floor models, which can cut
massive beams lengthwise, weigh nearly a ton. There are more modest versions
that sit on special stands, but even smaller bench-top versions, which might be
considered portable, would be hefty to tote.
Measurements Regardless of their overall dimensions, band saws are
classified by the diameter of the wheels that hold their blade in place. That
dimension is slightly greater than the one that really counts: throat
capacity. Measured by the distance between the blade and the throat--the
supporting post that connects the top and bottom wheels--throat capacity
determines the maximum width of board the saw can handle.
The depth of the cut that can be made is determined by another measurement
altogether--namely, how far the upper blade guide can be maneuvered above the
table. Bench-top models might eke out a cut just over 3 inches deep, those on
stands might go to 6 inches, and giant floor models may be able to cut 12 inches
or more.
Horsepower An underpowered tool will labor under the effort of the
work and cut slowly, resulting in burns in the wood from the accumulating
friction. To avoid this, you need a saw that has the appropriate horsepower for
the job. For instance, if you're cutting through 3 or more inches of hardwood,
you'll need a saw with at least a 1/2 horsepower motor. To make cuts of up to 6
inches deep, go with a 3/4 horsepower motor. To saw beams, you'll need a giant
machine with about 3 horsepower.
All About
Blades Size Blades come in a nearly uniform thickness, but
they vary greatly in width. Narrow 1/8-inch blades can cut tight curves without
twisting and breaking. Blades of 1/4 inch are the most versatile; they're
narrow enough to cut curves and wide enough to handle straight cuts quickly.
A 3/4-inch blade can still cut curves with a decent 5-inch radius.
Larger blades of up to 2 inches or more are strictly for straight lines.
These cut fast and straight, and won't twist.
Tooth count The fewer teeth a blade has per inch, the faster it will
cut. For this reason, many-toothed blades should be used for thin stock; blades
with fewer teeth work better on thick boards. Blades for sawing beams, for
instance, might have only two or three teeth per inch, while a blade for thin
scrollwork can have 20. The most popular blades among woodworkers have between 4
and 10 teeth per inch.
Material matters Blades come in a variety of materials:
Steel blades are the least expensive. Although they work well with
ordinary wood, they become dull when used on glued woods or plastic, and they
won't cut steel. Bimetal blades are designed to handle the strain of
cutting metal; their teeth are made of high-speed durable steel.
Carbide blades are pricey, but they stay sharper longer than ordinary
steel blades. They should be used only on wood, not metal.
Curtis Rist, a writer for This Old House magazine,
parks his power tool collection in New York's Hudson River
Valley.
Article courtesy of Amazon.com.
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